Hyaluronic Acid: Everything You Need to Know
Hyaluronic acid (HA) is in almost every moisturiser, serum, and toner on the market today – and for good reason. It is one of the most effective humectants (moisture-binding ingredients) known to dermatology. But there is one common mistake most people make that dramatically reduces its effectiveness.
What is Hyaluronic Acid?
Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring polysaccharide (a type of sugar) found in the body – particularly in the skin, joints, and eyes. Its superpower is its ability to bind and retain up to 1,000 times its molecular weight in water. A single gram can hold up to six litres of water.
As we age, our natural HA levels decline, which is a major contributor to the loss of plumpness and elasticity that comes with time.
The Common Mistake
Here is the critical detail: hyaluronic acid is a humectant. This means it draws moisture from its surroundings. When applied to completely dry skin in a dry environment, it can actually pull water out of the deeper layers of the dermis, temporarily worsening dryness.
The fix: always apply HA to damp skin – ideally within 60 seconds of washing your face or spraying a hydrating mist. Then seal it immediately with a moisturiser to lock that moisture in.
Molecular Weight Matters
Not all hyaluronic acid is the same. Low-molecular-weight HA penetrates deeper into the skin; high-molecular-weight HA forms a protective film on the surface. The best serums combine both for deep hydration and surface plumping.
How to Use It
- Cleanse and leave skin slightly damp.
- Apply 3–4 drops of HA serum and press gently into the skin.
- Follow immediately with a moisturiser while HA is still wet.
- Apply SPF in the morning routine (HA is suitable for AM and PM use).
Hyaluronic acid plays well with almost every other skincare ingredient – retinol, vitamin C, niacinamide. It is the one ingredient worth keeping in your routine at all times, year-round.